Montaperti-the Battle Won

Our destination-not reached

Montaperti is a small hamlet just 8 km from the city of Siena that figures prominently in 13th century history and in the Commedia. Several of us had wanted to make a pilgrimage there and perhaps pour out libations to the fallen and we got our chance this afternoon. After 6 hours of Dante class, we were ready to stretch our legs and so covered the several blocks to the bus stop quickly. Bus #5 to San Piero or Montaperti arrived promptly at 5:24 and about 12 of us hopped on (the bus leaves from Via Garibaldi just across from the Vecchia Dogana Pizzeria).


The ride was breathtaking-small neighborhoods gave way to freshly hayed fields and thick sunflower crops. Soon we were amidst steep  hills and deep-cut valleys and I found myself imagining the hardships of fighting and holding positions in such a place.

Two years of political maneuvering brought Guelf-controlled Florence to this site on the morning of September 4, 1260. They were an army of 30,000 including men from the towns of San Gimignano and  Orvieto. Ghibbeline Siena, though strengthened by King Manfred of Sicily and his German mercenaries, had only 20,000 troops. But Siena managed to hold the field with superior strategy. Here is wikipedia's take for all you battle geeks out there: Battle of Montaperti

In one of his most memorable mentions of Montaperti, Dante writes traitor Bocca degli Abati into the 9th Circle of Hell for his treacherous betrayal at this battle. Bocca, a Florentine with Ghibbeline sympathies, crosses his own comrades by hacking off the arm of their Standard bearer. Without a flag, the Florentine troops effectively lost sight of their battle leader and were thrown into confusion.

Storm clouds-Montaperti is 2.1 Km walk from this stop

As we approached our stop, dark clouds bristled with lightening and a  storm spread out on the horizon. We were forced to turn back-but not defeated. Our backpack picnic provisions-and their bearers- found their way to Ron's apartment-with its spectacular views of the Torre Mangia and Duomo towers.


We were fortified by Vernaccia, Chianti, Sangiovese and Vino Nobile wines. Grana (a less elegant cousin to Parmesan that I prefer in the same way that I prefer Grade B maple syrup to Fancy) and asiago cheeses, along with sweet cherry tomatoes and rich breads fed us. The culmination of the afternoon was a show of Italian standards to rival any flown in battle-these in the from of Ron's Marinella ties. To paraphrase the great tie-maker himself (Eugenio Marinella): It is the total of the particulars that win the day.

The Standards