Just 40 km Northwest of Siena is the medieval town of San Gimignano. It is an easy bus ride from Siena-with the added bonus of stopping in the hill towns of Monteriggioni, Poggibonsi and Colle de V. d'Elsa. If you are traveling in Tuscany, you must go here!
The town's striking towers announce both its presence and history from a long way off. There are currently only 14 full towers left of the between 70-76 that were built in the 13th century. Partly these towers were used to spot outside invaders and prepare defenses, but by Dante's time they were being used as internal panopticons by feuding families.
The town's striking towers announce both its presence and history from a long way off. There are currently only 14 full towers left of the between 70-76 that were built in the 13th century. Partly these towers were used to spot outside invaders and prepare defenses, but by Dante's time they were being used as internal panopticons by feuding families.
Reading the Commedia, one is always conscious of Dante's life outside of the persona of celebrated poet. He was involved in military campaigns including the Battle of Campaldino near Arezzo 1289, and that same year at Caprona near Pisa. This last battle finds its way into the Commedia (purg. 5: 91-129)
Dante's entrance into politics coincides with a period of intense factionalism (not that any of us know what THAT is like today). F City records show that he was elected to a two month term in June,1300 to serve as one of the 7 priors (members chosen from the local city guilds) that comprised the governing body of Florence.
Just before this, Dante was sent to San Gimignano as an ambassador of the Florentine Republic and the Palazzo del Comune (or del Popolo)-the city government building, has named it's council chamber Sala di Dante in his honor (and as a tourist draw). In this room is an enormous fresco of the Maestà done in 1317 by Sienese master Lippo Memmi. Lippo was the brother-in-law of Simone Martini by whose Maestà in Siena he was influenced.Memmi's Maestà
The kneeling figure in the center is Nello de Mino Tolomei who was podestà at the time (an office similar to mayor), and a major patron who commissioned the work.
At the Collegiata di San Gimignano (a Cathedral before but now an educational church as there is no bishop), are spectacular frescoes by Lippo Memmi -scenes of the New Testament done between 1333 and 1341; Bartolo di Fredi -scenes of the Old Testament done in 1367; Benozzo Gozzoli-St. Sebastian and honorary back drops for the lovely wooden statues of Gabriel and Mary during the annunciation. The frescoes cover every wall in the Collegiata and give you a sense of what was lost due to decrees that declared churches should be standardized in decorations. (About which, more later)
Benozzo Gozzoli also has frescoes in the church of San Agostino which portray the life of St. Augustine. They are spectacular. Many of Gozzoli's works have characteristic quirks like little dogs, tufts of plants and piles of stones on the ground, and extremely realistic people whose personalities fairly jump off the wall. We were not allowed to take photos but here is a link to a wonderful interactive site that allows you to tour the narrative frescoes: Benoozzo Gozzoli's Frescoes
I climbed the Torre Grossa off the Palazzo Comunale after our session, and was rewarded by the indescribable beauty of this region. It seemed another narrative like those told in the four frescoes we viewed-a narrative best told in images.
The final reward was gelato (of course!) but this time at the World Champion gelateria. The gelatos are made by hand with local ingredients and are another narrative of place, community, love and tradition that I unfortunately cannot convey on this page. I had two scoops: one was local saffron and toasted pine nuts, and the other was chocolate and whole hazel nuts. The first was called Crema de Sta. Fina recipe for Crema de Sta. Fina after the local Saint who was struck down in paralysis for 5 years and never complained of this travail. When she finally died, yellow pansies rained down at her burial from the town's towers. I can't vouch for this particular miracle, but the combination of the frescoes, the countryside and the gelato are miracle enough for me.
Benozzo Gozzoli also has frescoes in the church of San Agostino which portray the life of St. Augustine. They are spectacular. Many of Gozzoli's works have characteristic quirks like little dogs, tufts of plants and piles of stones on the ground, and extremely realistic people whose personalities fairly jump off the wall. We were not allowed to take photos but here is a link to a wonderful interactive site that allows you to tour the narrative frescoes: Benoozzo Gozzoli's Frescoes
I climbed the Torre Grossa off the Palazzo Comunale after our session, and was rewarded by the indescribable beauty of this region. It seemed another narrative like those told in the four frescoes we viewed-a narrative best told in images.
The final reward was gelato (of course!) but this time at the World Champion gelateria. The gelatos are made by hand with local ingredients and are another narrative of place, community, love and tradition that I unfortunately cannot convey on this page. I had two scoops: one was local saffron and toasted pine nuts, and the other was chocolate and whole hazel nuts. The first was called Crema de Sta. Fina recipe for Crema de Sta. Fina after the local Saint who was struck down in paralysis for 5 years and never complained of this travail. When she finally died, yellow pansies rained down at her burial from the town's towers. I can't vouch for this particular miracle, but the combination of the frescoes, the countryside and the gelato are miracle enough for me.
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