Why do we travel

St. Jerome in the Capella della Madonna del Voto by Gian Lorenzo Bernini

Travel is on my mind lately-not least because of the Commedia and its tale of an epic journey. Today we read the diptych Cantos 26 and 27 about the physical voyage of Ulysses (Dante came up with his own version of Homer's Odyssey) and the "spiritual" journey made by Guido de Montefeltro. Both are placed in the 8th bolgia of the 9th circle of Hell-a place reserved for those who counsel fraud.

These two Cantos just came alive in discussion today. It is interesting as much of what Dante condemns in these two travelers was underscored by experiencing the inverse. Both characters travel for personal gain and out of an individual desire for knowledge. Dante's Ulysses says " neither the sweetness of a son, nor compassion for my old father, nor the love owed to Penelope, which should have made her glad, could conquer within me the ardor that I had to gain experience of the world" (remember that this is WAY different from Homer's guy who is fiercely motivated to get back to his family). 

Guido is likewise driven by personal gain- a spot inside the gates of Heaven."I was a man of arms, and then I was a Franciscan, believing so girt, to make amends"  he says with the air of one whose deal fell through. (Both Guido and Dante's Ulysses souls are in hell for counseling others to do fraud as part of their self-centered journeys). Neither repents of the duties shirked or people injured along the way. 

It kind of reminds me of those climbers in Jon Krakauer's account of the 1997 Everest disaster. Dante's journey is just the opposite. He can't sidestep the hardships to get to the good stuff, he relies on and is grateful for the help of others, and he shares what he's learning on the way. It strikes me that reading this poem is a similar journey. It involves personal preparation and struggle, but is also dependent on others. 

After our 3 hour reading discussion, we went to the Duomo-the main cathedral-in Siena. The entire experience was just spectacular. I especially loved two 15th century statues done by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The one above, St. Jerome, is in the Capella della Madonna del Voto. Two Dante themes here-St. Jerome (347-420 c.e), who traveled quite a bit himself, is best known for translating the Bible into Latin. And the Capella is dedicated to the Madonna del Voto whose miraculous protection the Sienese credit for their victory against huge odds in the Battle of Monteperti- but that story will have to be taken up another day. A glass of wine and Purgatorio call me!