Canto XVII, Paradisio








Tu proverai sì come sa di sale
lo pane altrui, e come è duro calle
lo scendere e’l salir per l’altrui scale.

You will experience how salty tastes the bread

of another, and what a hard path it is to descend
and mount by another's stair.

-Canto XVII, Paradisio


Saturday, June 25, 2011

FIrst morning-the swallows of Siena

This morning I awoke early and fixed myself coffee in the cafetera (I am not sure what the Italian word is for the little pot I usually call the bullet). I have two such pots at home and like them as they can be used on stove top or camping. Sarah, a Dante Seminarian, and I met to go running and did four or five loops on top of the Fortaleza Medici just beyond our street. The park was filled with people of all ages walking and running, and we could see the whole city and countryside from the hill top.

Here is a short video of the swallows that greeted me in the morning. I think they are red-rumped swallows but haven't been able to get a close view.


We had a full day touring the city with Wes Kennison. The most enjoyable was our afternoon and evening introduction to the palio. This is  a horse race that has been run for several centuries in Siena and involved the 17 local contrade (like barrios or  blocos or  escolas de samba- neighborhood associations with broad social roles). The symbolism and influence of each  contrada is visible everywhere-particularly now as we approach two important Sienese dates-the choosing of the horses on June 29th and the running of the July 2nd race. We particularly focused on onda  and my photos depict the dolphin and waves that are its principal symbols.

The photos below show preparations in the morning for the horse race track-a dirt track that circles the campo,  the major square in Siena. Dirt is trucked in and the depth and moisture level carefully measured.
Each contrada  also has a patron saint, a fountain within the neighborhood, and a totem animal or symbol. The tartuga or turtle was striking. Its fountain was just down from the main cathedral and the water was sweet and drinkable.
We went to a beautiful baptism outside of the onda church, and later were privileged to participate in the outside dinner for the  contrada.  Here are some images from the day.
Baptism-notice the silk scarf on the baby with the contrada  symbols.

The Palio for 2011 unveiled. The Madonna di Provenzano.

The contrada  dinner.

Contrada members open wine for the dinner.

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