Montalcino and the Church of San Antimo

Lavender and Rosemary Outside the Benedictine Living Quarters of Abbazia di Sant' Antonimo

We spent the day outside of Siena visiting the Abbazia di Sant' Antimo and the town of Montalcino, famous for Brunello wines. The countryside was astonishing. I think perhaps one of the most beautiful aspects is the way that people have shaped their surroundings, been able to bring forth so much from the land for so many hundreds of years, and still have not lost the contours and foundations of the soil itself. Pressures from heavy tourism and the lure of easy money seem to be completely deflected by the intense sense of place, attachment to tradition and community well being. 

Dante talks quite a bit about the bene comune and it is amazing to see it in the physical landscape, food traditions and community customs.

The Abbazia was built by Charlemagne in 1113, but records and foundations of an older church from 813 belie the apocryphal story that his was the original church. It is along the Via Francigena (the road leading North to France), and  built in the French style of pilgrimage churches. There are 3 chapels for example, each with its own altar to accommodate more masses and people. Relics from San Antimo and San Sebastian are both said to be held in the church-given by Charlemagne in gratitude for being cured from an epidemic that struck he and his entourage on the way back from visiting the Pope.

We picnicked on salumi (cold cuts-prosciutto, salami, and a wonderful bologna), cheeses, bread, fruit and wine on top of the small city of Montalcino and spent the rest of the day exploring the town, eating gelato and strolling about. 

I had my first full exchange with an Italian couple-naturally it was around their beautiful brindle boxer dog. Here is the dialogue paraphrased in English-note the extreme range of vocabulary and clear evidence of brilliance in this exchange:

Me:  What a beautiful dog. What is his name? 

Italian Man: Eric

Me: I have a boxer too-her name is Edith.

Italian Man (brightening, with wife smiling by his side): Oh great! How old is she?

Me: She is two-she is small.

Italian Man (wife worrying as boxer dog pees almost on her shoes): Eric is one-he is a good dog.

Me: Yes-good dogs. Thank you.

Italian Man and wife (side-stepping large puddle of pee): Thank You-have a good one.

The sad note is that I was probably as excited that I initiated and held my own in this little exchange as I was about the visit to this astounding place.