Sunday the Palio or flag/standard was revealed. Each year an artist is chosen to do the palio and there are traditional elements such as an image of the Madonna, all 17 contrada shields, and the horses and city of Siena that must be included. I found the palio to be gorgeous but several people complained about the " ugliness of the virgin". Since the artist is best known for political cartoons, I am sure there is a subtext that I am missing.
Today's ceremony centered around the selection of the 10 horses to run, and their assignment to each contrada. The ceremony starts with 3 trial races in the morning. The contrada capitans meet to select the 10 horses to run. This sounds fairly straightforward but negotiating, deals and complex algorithms are followed. For example, if you have very little money in your contrada this year, you may want to select horses that aren't the cream of the crop-that way you have an excuse for not using your money to pay a really good jockey. Jockeys can make up to 6 figures!
By noon the Campo starts filling up with contrada members wearing their scarves. Above are members of the tartuga Contrada. The main members march in singing their song and take a position just in front of the Palazzo Publico to await their assigned horse. Horses are chosen by lottery and the numbers read off by the mayor. As soon as each horse is assigned, members of the contrada rush to take possession and protect the horse-and lead it back to a special barn in their neighborhood.
Above you can see the 10 horses selected, and the corresponding contrada to whom they were assigned. For example, the first horse called was horse #5 and he was assigned to Drago or Dragon contrada. Poor Tartuga was called last and so missed out on the suspense and drama leading up to the announcement.
It is important to protect the horse as you are permitted to have back-up jockeys but not back-up horses. Another interesting rule is that the horse can finish the race riderless and still win. While we were there an unusual scuffle happened. Unusual as this is considered a public space and civic ceremony-both of which are governed by unspoken but stern social norms. One of the contrade responded to verbal taunts of another with physical attacks-and mayhem ensued. At issue was the fact that they advanced on the taunting contrada members as they were leading the horse by, and spooked the horse. So it was a triple transgression-neutral space, public event AND the horse was virtually accosted. It took several minutes for the police to get things under control.
You can watch the Palio and the events leading up to it from here: Siena live tv. Once you are in, you may see a yellow box that says you don't have the required plug-in. Click on the phrase that says: Se non riesci a visualizzare lo Streaming clicca qui or you can click right under the Live Streaming box where it says guarda Siena TV col tuo player preferito. You should be able to watch the events over the next few days. (The tv show is called 96 hours).
No comments:
Post a Comment